Environmental issues are increasingly penetrating into all spheres of life, including fashion. Sustainability is one of the most relevant trends in our time, which not only manages all business flows, but is also a significant factor influencing the success or a complete failure of companies. In order to resist and not fall under oppression and a wave of hatred from consumers, the company must contribute to the protection of the environment and have clear and transparent values that correspond to the modern eco-structure of the world.
The use of natural leather in production, toxic glue, tons of emissions, the massive use of plastic, fast fashion with its tens or even hundreds of new collections, non-biodegradable materials and the lack of recycling and bad working conditions at production factories is what, unfortunately, the shoe market has been famous for. Not very sustainable, right?
The industry of sneakers has not always been in the forefront of those who fight to reduce environmental damage and engage in charitable activities. However, eco-shoes today can be found in the collections of brands of all segments – from luxury like Stella McCartney, sports Nike, Reebok, Adidas and to mass like H&M. The new niche allowed many innovative companies, such as OAT, or Nat-2 make a successful business with an extremely high demand.
In this article we are going to look at the most interesting cases of sustainable production of sneakers of three big segments: top-famous sports brands, luxury shoes and innovative sustainable sneakers’ brands. We will see how the brands of sneakers are trying to get out of the vicious circle of harmful production and how successful they are in it.
What is sustainable fashion?
Sustainable fashion is the trend the aim of which is to change the worldview and lifestyle. There are several key issues at the heart of a sustainable worldview -economy, ethics and ecology.
Sustainable fashion is associated not only with minimizing the harmful effects on the environment, but also with the question of the working conditions on the factories, which still remain extremely difficult in some countries.
Sustainable & Famous
Of course, it’s not a surprise that the most famous brands who own more than 80% of the market were one of the first to support the eco-trend. The collaborations between Adidas, Nike, Reebok and other big companies with small eco-brands brought to amazing results.
Adidas
Adidas has decided to become a leader in the attempts to make the planet cleaner with a list of innovative sustainable development projects. It has made a very big job for the last several years making eco-runs and events and, of course, producing eco-friendly shoes.
Using their “Formotion” technology – “a system of a freely moving support plate that is not attached to the sole, which allows the sneakers to adapt to the running style of the wearer”, Adidas reduced the amount of waste in the production process by almost 50% due to the rejection of sprues.
Adidas also reformed the process of dyeing of fabrics. The new DryDye technology is used,which does not require water, uses less chemicals and 50% less energy than traditional dyeing processes.
Adidas and Parley
Adidas support Parley in educational and communication activities as part of the Parley A.I.R. strategy (Avoid, Intercept, Redesign – Avoid, Intercept, Turn). It lies in abandoning plastic bags and their microparticles in production processes, preventing plastic from entering the ocean and eliminating existing threats, as well as developing environmental innovations in the field of materials, products and new ways to use them with the main goal of recycling existing plastic.
Popular Ultra Boost and NMD Adidas sneakers’models, usually with sea or ultramarine inserts, are made from Parley Ocean Plastic fibers, which are made from plastic waste collected from beaches and coastal areas.
To begin with, manufacturers decided to use coastal trash and fishing nets raised from the bottom as material.
Adidas Futurecraft.Loop
One more innovative model created by Adidas is Futurecraft.Loop sneaker that can be completely redesigned into new shoes. The company ask the customers to return these sneakers as soon as they become unusable in order to be sent for recycling.
Reducing plastic waste is the first step, but not the only one /…/ The next step is to get rid of the term of “garbage”. We want to make sure that you can wear the same shoes again and again.
Eric Lidtke, member of the board of directors of the company.
Reebok
Last year, Reebok caught up with competitors and also offered customers its first eco-friendly shoe model.
The new initiative of the Cotton + Corn sports campaign is shoes with a sole from corn and a top made from natural cotton, and the insole made from castor oil. The footwear is environmentally friendly and does not contain leather or polyurethane.
Reebok plans to abandon gradually leather and oil materials in production and switch to plant components. They already removed dyes from the production process, so the sneakers remain unpainted. Shoes are packed in boxes made from recycled materials.
For the Cotton + Corn model three-component sustainable product life cycle has been developed that takes into account production, usage and recycling. Old sneakers can be sent to be reproduced or composted.
We like to say, we are ‘growing shoes’ here at Reebok. Ultimately, our goal is to create a broad selection of bio-based footwear that can be composted after use. We’ll then use that compost as part of the soil to grow the materials for the next range of shoes. We want to take the entire cycle into account; to go from dust to dust
Bill Mcinnis, Head of Reebok Future
Vans
The American company Vans has released eco-friendly running shoes from recycled cork. This natural material provides good thermal insulation and allows skin to breathe.
The cork for the sneakers is mined on the west coast of the Mediterranean Sea. According to the World Wildlife Fund, the production of cork material does not harm the environment, as it does not lead to the felling of trees. The bark used for production is completely restored within 9 years.
Besides, Vans has a wide range of transparent green sole operations including the change of the whole policy and operational procsses to make production more eco-friendly.
Converse
The American brand Converse announced the environmental project called Renew. The brand has presented sneakers made of used plastic bottles, recycled denim and cotton canvas.
Touch it, feel it, wear it – we bet you won’t know the difference. Except that you’ll look good – and feel good – knowing you’re giving waste a second life.
@Converse
Sustainable & Luxury
Luxury industry can be called the first to take the trend of sustainability to its products, especially clothes. The whole fashion shows are made to draw attention to a very serious problem of ecological disaster.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney is a world-famous designer whose clothes have become a real cult for conscious fashionistas around the world, and winner of an award for innovation and outstanding contribution to fashion, raising awareness of environmental issues and developing sustainability.
One of the hits of the sneakers presented by Stella McCartney was Loop Sneakers.
The key feature of this shoe is the possibility of complete recycling. Shoes are made according to the principle of the Lego constructor – the sole is not glued to the upper part, but is connected using grooves. This is necessary for ease of processing and rejection of harmful adhesives.
Sustainable & Innovative
The trend of sustainability gave a rise to a numerous companies who creates unconventional but very interesting shoes which can really change the future world of fashion.
OAT Shoes
OAT shoe company is a new name in the fashion world. It was founded in 2008 by Christian Maats (Christiaan Maats), who sees his mission in bringing people closer to nature through innovative creative approache.
The design team developed the first collection of fully ecological biodegradable shoes made of 100% safe materials: hemp, cork, organic cotton, biodegradable plastic, chlorine-free bleach and other non-toxic materials.
All shoes are designed in light natural colors with eye-catching bright intersperses of red, blue, yellow and green. There is a little secret in sneakers: seeds are hidden in a flexible sole, which, after “burial” and watering, have every chance of turning into flowers
Nat-2
Nat-2 as a brand and a project aims to attract the attention of consumers and the industry to the fact that there is a wide variety of alternative materials, methods and ways of thinking in the fashion industry.
The first vegan mushroom sneakers were designed by Nina Fabert. Biotextiles, peel of a mushroom and a special eco-coating were used in the production .
The designers also decided that coffee grounds are no worse than a mushroom tree , and also exudes an invigorating aroma. Sneakers are made of 50% recycled coffee and have a delicate and pleasant texture.
Sneakers are 100% vegan. The upper part of the model is made from coffee beans and coffee plant waste. Suede-like shoe parts are made from recycled plastic bottles. The soles are made of rubber. The insoles of the sneakers are made of natural cork and have an antibacterial effect.
Other shoe lines of this company also look very unusual: sneakers made of hay, dairy waste, cork, sneakers made of natural stone or wood. The environmental aspect is emphasized even in product packaging — shoe boxes, leaflets and product brochures made from recycled paper.
In the future, endless creativity and common sense are needed to support our planet and create a decent life and environment for our children and grandchildren.
Sebastian Thies, the owner of Nat-2
Oliver Cabell
The American brand of sneakers Oliver Cabell is one moreinnovative brand who introduced sneakers printed on a 3D printer using plastic bottles as materials.
The idea of the brand has always been quite simple – a combination of the best design with the latest technology, as well as the promotion of ethical fashion. Sneakers Phoenix is the culmination of many years of work.
Scott Gabrielson , the Oliver Cabell brand founder
Scott Gabrielson says that the waste was reduced by 80%, and the upper part of the sneakers had no seams or cuts. Also the sneakers can be washed in the washing machine. The shoes are light, comfortable and convenient, with no feeling of plastic on his feet. Also, sneakers are designed to be worn without socks because ofthe antibacterial lining.
Reducing the resources spent on production, the use of recycled materials, ethical principles – this approach is becoming the norm in the fashion world today and we can expect the industry of sports shoes to change incredibly soon.
By Daria Galankina
References:
https://images.businessoffashion.com/
https://www.behance.net/gallery/263256/adidas-ForMotion
https://www.adidas.com/us/parley
https://news.adidas.com/parley-ocean-plastic
https://www.entrepreneur.com/article/292438
https://www.reebok.com/us/npc-uk-cotton-and-corn/DV8957.html
https://www.instagram.com/vans/
https://www.vans.com/sustainability.html
https://www.sneakerfreaker.com/articles/material-matters-converse-renew-powers-sustainable-sneakers/
https://www.stellamccartney.com/lv/stella-mccartney/sneakers_cod11670670fb.html
https://olivercabell.com/products/phoenix-white
https://www.eship.ox.ac.uk/scott-gabrielson-founder-oliver-cabell
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